A material ordered simply as “hotmelt film” is not one adhesive. Films are made from different thermoplastic polymers, such as TPU, PA (copolyamide), PES (copolyester) or EVA, and that choice directly shapes the bond’s flexibility, its behaviour in washing and dry cleaning, the hand feel and the press window. When the same patch holds perfectly on one fabric and lifts at the edges on another, the cause is often a mismatch between polymer and fabric. This guide breaks down the main types of hotmelt film by polymer and explains how to choose one for a given fabric.
Hotmelt film types by polymer
- TPU hotmelt film: High elasticity and recovery, so it stretches with elastane fabrics. That makes it a natural fit for sportswear, seamless garments and underwear. The hand is usually soft. It is the first type to look at wherever a flexible bond is needed.
- PA (copolyamide) hotmelt film: Bonds well to cotton and blends and generally offers strong dry-cleaning resistance. It can feel drier than TPU. It is often considered for outerwear, jackets and garments that will be dry cleaned.
- PES (copolyester) hotmelt film: Chemically similar to polyester fabric, so it bonds well to those surfaces and usually holds up well to home laundering. It is common in polyester-based workwear, labels and patches.
- EVA hotmelt film: Activates at lower temperatures and is economical, but its resistance to hot washing, tumble drying and heat is limited. It suits heat-sensitive materials or decorative and temporary applications with little laundering.
Choosing by fabric and end use
The right type depends not only on the fibre but on everything the garment will go through. Narrowing the choice in this order helps:
- Fabric surface: fibre (cotton, polyester, polyamide), elastane content and any coating, finish or water-repellent treatment. Silicone-finished or water-repellent surfaces do not bond equally with every polymer.
- Stretch: if the part must stretch with the fabric, choose a flexible type, usually TPU. A stiff film will peel away from a fabric that moves.
- Care conditions: target wash temperature, number of cycles, tumble drying and dry cleaning. For workwear that goes through industrial laundering, this is often the deciding factor.
- Heat sensitivity: if the fabric or patch shines, marks or changes colour at higher temperatures, a lower-activation type may be needed.
- Hand and thickness: film thickness matters as much as polymer type; an overly thick film feels stiff and plasticky whatever it is made of.
How to confirm the choice
Polymer type is a starting point, not an approval. Ask the supplier for the technical data sheet (TDS) and trial the recommended temperature, time and pressure on your own press. Then test samples under the planned washing and dry-cleaning conditions and check edge adhesion and peel strength; the wash resistance guide can help you plan the tests. Linking the approved film type and press recipe to the fabric code keeps surprises out of bulk production. For the film used to fix patches and labels, see the Hotmelt BSN film page.
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This article was summarised and commented on by the LTS Frekans editorial team, drawing on the source article.
